Taipei Travel

A Waterfall, Birdsong and Mountain Greenery –
Yuanjue Temple and Liyushan Trails Loop
 

Article Zhong Wenping

Photos Li Zhiwei, Taipei City Geotechnical Engineering Office

▲Yuanjue Temple lives up to its name – you can enjoy the coolness and have a taste of the pilgrimage experience too.
 

Zhongyangjian (中央尖山), Dabajian (大霸尖山) and Dafenjian Mountains (達芬尖山) are well-known pyramid-like, sharp and pointy peaks in Taiwan. There’s even a mini version of these three in the Neihu District of Taipei City: Yuanjuejian (圓覺尖山), Liyu (鯉魚山) and Zhongyong Mountains (忠勇山). The height of this second group barely exceeds 200-300 meters, and when you look from downtown, it’s hard to identify individual peaks from their smooth outlines; although they do, in fact, have steep, sharp ridges hidden behind the broad-leafed forest. These mountains aren’t tall but have more features than their bigger brothers with smooth ridge lines.

Adventure in a Sparkling Creek

A combination of the Yuanjue Temple and Liyushan Hiking Trails, this looping path in Neihu is 2.8 kilometers long and suitable for everyone. Take the MRT and get off at MRT Dahu Park Station (捷運大湖公園站), then walk along Dahu Villa Street (大湖山莊街), and follow the outer edge of Dagou Riverside Park (大溝溪親水公園) until it ends at Ye’s Ancestral Temple (葉氏祖廟). This is the trailhead of Yuanjue Temple Trail.

The first stretch of the trail winds smoothly along Dagou Creek (大溝溪). The waterway babbles along forming plunge pools of different depths and creating a misty atmosphere. You’ll find yourself cooled even before you jump into the water! Dagou Creek is a tributary of Keelung River (基隆河), and its water is clear and teeming with fish, shrimp and aquatic insects. In the fall, you can easily spot dragonflies and damselflies hovering above the water. On the creek’s banks you might find such unusual bird species as the Taiwan whistling thrush and that expert angler: the Kingfisher. If you are very lucky, you might spot Mr. Kingfisher diving down and grabbing a fish with its beak! Such amazing scenes can only be found at such a clean, wild stretch of water.

A Rough Pilgrimage Road Through the Forest Past a Waterfall

After you pass Yuanjue Waterfall (圓覺瀑布), the real challenge begins. Climbing the 500-plus stone steps, hikers will often find themselves in a state of awe. A good way to distract oneself is try to identify plants along the trail, such as the large-leafed nanmu, the Morris persimmon, and the camphor tree. You might also spot a Taiwan tallow tree, whose beautiful red leaves arrive only in old age, a Japanese elaeocarpus, or the common elaeocarpus. A part of the mountainside for hundreds or thousands of years, these forest giants are a sight to behold. After about 20 minutes of ambulatory struggle, you arrive at Yuanjue Temple midway along the trail and take a break. You can listen to worshippers chanting in Sanskrit while you catch your breath. After the exertion of hiking, this relaxing moment will give you a great sense of satisfaction.

After resting at Yangjue Temple, it’s time to hit the trail again. Taking the driveway to the left, you’ll soon connect with the head of Liyushan Hiking Trail, along both sides of which you’ll see a “miniature world” featuring mini versions of the Great Wall of China and other world-famous attractions. All of these took Old Mr. Liu 15 years to build, single-handed. The clay-sculptured Great Wall forms a natural dividing line between the lush forest of Liyushan on the outside and the level, man-made slab path on the inside. Some sculptures are scattered along the trail, and some hidden in the bushes. This is not something you normally see on a mountain hike, but it adds a kind of “treasure hunting in the maze” fun to this one-kilometer downhill trail.

▲Liyushan Hiking Trail, 223 meters above sea level, makes you feel as if you’re about to reach the sky, when compared with Yuanjue Temple Trail and its borders of giant trees. (Photo: Taipei City Geotechnical Engineering Office)
 

Liyushan and Yuanjue Temple Trails Loop

Location Ln. 131, Dahu Villa St., Neihu District

Total length About 2.8 km. for the trail part; about 4.8 km. for the whole route.

Walking time About 2 hours (It varies from person to person.)