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Unforgettable Food Tours – Dihua Street (TAIPEI QUARTERLY 2016 WINTER Vol.06)

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Post date:2017-03-10

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The True Tastes of Old-Time Taipei
Unforgettable Food Tours – Dihua Street
Article_Xu Ciqian
Photos_Shi Chuntai
 
In Ryu , novelist Akira Higashiyama describes the Taipei of his childhood – the charms of the old-city area, the unique ambience arising from the fusion of the old with the new. He feels that the best way to get to know the “true tastes of Taipei” is to immerse yourself in the bustling neighborhood atmosphere, exploring the past to better know the present. Leisurely stroll about and sample the tasty foods, savoring the many colorful and curious new things that serendipity brings your way within this world of nostalgia. The writer specially recommends Dihua Street to experience the warmth and sense of coziness that travel to old and new Taipei can bring.
TAIPEI WINTER 2016 Vol.06 Unforgettable Food Tours – Dihua Street
▲ The Dihua Street area once flourished as a tea trading hub. (Photo: Shi Chuntai)
 
Dihua Street is the heart of Dadaocheng, which long had a roaring international tea trade. Many of its great merchants were believers in Christianity, and some celebrated their business success by building churches. One such person was Lee Chun-Sheng (李春生), known as the “father of Taiwan tea,” who contributed funds to build the Dadaocheng Branch of the Presbyterian Church in Taiwan (大稻埕長老教會) and Lee Chun-sheng Memorial Christ Presbyterian Church (李春生紀念館). These provide a vivid visual contrast with such local Eastern centers of worship as the Taipei Xia-Hai City God Temple (台北霞海城隍廟).
 
Of course, the historic buildings along Dihua Street itself are also a sight to behold. Today, the majority house Chinese-medicine shops and sellers of regional specialty products. And it’s not only locals who come here to shop. For the international tourist, this locale means a different experience from that found at a modern mall, providing an interesting exploration through space and time.
TAIPEI WINTER 2016 Vol.06 Unforgettable Food Tours – Dihua Street
▲ Dadaocheng Branch of the Presbyterian Church in Taiwan stands as an architectural witness to the history of Taipei. (Photo: Shi Chuntai)
 
In addition to the well-preserved streetscapes, in recent years many shops have gone down the cultural and creative industry road, successfully luring back young consumers. In days past, author Akira lingered over tea while savoring the refined blending of past and present in the building, now renovated, that houses one of the city’s ArtYard (聯藝埕) operations. Lingering in Dadaocheng, it’s easy to find yourself feeling sentimental over times now gone. Akira specially recommends a visit to the Taiyuan Asian Puppet Theatre Museum (台原亞洲偶戲博物館), where you can learn about the puppets and puppetry traditions of Taiwan and the world. The Dihua Street experience is an enchanting, superlative time-space tour.
TAIPEI WINTER 2016 Vol.06 Unforgettable Food Tours – Dihua Street
▲ The tasty traditional foods served up in Dadaocheng continually attract tourists on culinary explorations. (Photo: Shi Chuntai)
 
On any Dadaocheng visit, exploration of the endless traditional culinary delights is a must. The nondescript vendor’s stand or eatery is often a spot that has been open for decades and treasured by locals, and the urge to join the excited queues is irresistible. Within delectably short walks from each other are Minle Street’s Minle Swordfish Rice Noodle Soup (民樂旗魚米粉湯), Yongle Tainan Mackeral Soup (永樂台南土魠魚羹), and stinky tofu sellers, and Dihua Street area’s Yan’s Almond Dew (顏記杏仁露), Yongle Mitaimu Noodles (永樂米苔目), Miao Kou Steamed Baozi (meat-stuffed buns) (妙口肉包), Jincheng Fishball Shop (進成魚丸店), Jia Xing Fuzhou Fishballs (佳興福州魚丸), and Summer Tree Sweet (夏樹甜品). There’s also the alley before Cisheng Temple (慈聖宮), a foodie paradise known far beyond neighborhood residents, featuring A-Lan’s Egg Fried Rice (阿蘭蛋炒飯), Ye Family Pork Congee (葉家肉粥), Shan Ben Rice Noodle Soup (山本米粉湯), and Squid Strips (魷魚標). If interested in snack treats, some good choices are Wei Fone Foods (維豐肉類食品; meat products), Lee’s Cake (李亭香餅店; traditional bakery), and Chiang Ji Hua Long Foods (江記華隆肉紙; pork crisps), which always has long lines when traditional festivals roll around.
 
Beyond the palate-thrilling experience of great food at equally great low prices, another fine idea is copying writer Akira’s Dihua Street “hipster” tour. Places like URS329 – Rice & Shine (URS329稻舍), Bloom (民藝埕), ArtYard67 (民藝埕), ArtYard2022 (眾藝埕), and ArtYard1 (小藝埕) percolate with innovative-cum-classical style. Dihua Street not only provides a feast for the palate, but also an arts and cultural banquet, making travelers “flowing” through the old city fall in love with its beauty.
 

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