TAIPEI 2016Summer Vol.04—Advent of a New Bread EraPost date：2016-07-11
Updates：2016-08-23
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Article ＿ Liu Ka-Shiang
Photos ＿ Huotou Gong
1. Heavy cheesecake commonly called New York cheesecake
A little over 10 years ago, a European style bakery quite unexpectedly opened its doors at the entrance to the century-old Muzha Market (木柵市場). One and all were startled and befuddled. To that point, for countless visitors to traditional markets, a bread vendor meant wood racks displaying Taiwan-style breads – chopped green onion, adzuki bean, pineapple, etc. But, I had never seen a shop where doing everything by hand and using slow fermentation were the foundation, and healthy ingredients emphasized.
Upon trying its products, our whole family became loyal customers of A-duan’s Bakery (阿段烘焙). Though a little out of the way, the fact that it was there encouraged us to do more of our shopping at Muzha Market. We sometimes travel to Maokong (貓空) to gohiking, and buy lunch there first before hopping on a bus to head uphill. And, when giving tours of Taipei’s traditional markets, I make a point of choosing this one. One consideration is the unusually large number of small farms cultivating fruits and vegetables in the area; another is what this bakery represents: the advent of a new bread era.
A 50-Something Man Named “Fire-Head Worker”: Kneading a Bread Philosophy From Life
About 5 or 6 years ago the bakery moved, though not far from the market. This community bakery’s operations have matured over the course of its development. As new offerings have been researched, its customer base has steadily increased, and European-style multigrain breads have gradually been accepted. Imperceptibly, the bakery has become an indispensable neighborhood shop, and a platform for exchange of food-safety knowledge. Not only have many people given them their long-term support, but have also identified with the concepts to which this bakery adheres.
At the heart of the bakery is the master baker nicknamed huotou gong (火頭工), literally “fire-head worker” (huotou is a general term for chefs and bakers, referring to ovens/stoves). Learning the trade after the age of 50, the vicissitudes of life have been the source in his kneading of a philosophy of life based on bread. Few bakers share his background, with advanced education in science and engineering, At the same time, he has a love for poetry and the arts, and plays a variety of musical instruments, which have influenced his temperament. Seeing him stand before the bread display cases, moving customers with a solemn melody played on a hulusi (葫蘆絲), a free reed wind instrument from Yunnan, it is as though he is showing respect to his breads, and as if he is encouraging each to emerge from the oven perfectly baked.
2. Master baker huotou gong (lit. “firehead worker”) has made the concept of a community bakery a reality.
Small Shop, Big Vision: Using Bread to Drive an Agri-Revolution
In recent times, Taiwan’s master bakers have repeatedly won awards in international competitions, and in Taipei bakeries have sprouted like bamboo shoots after a spring rain, making it a “baking capital” (烘焙之都). Our production technology has reached international standard. However, the next challenge is a higher level of cultural discourse, enhancing Taiwan’s “bread understanding.”
Huotou gong has experimented with local ingredients, and after years of trial and error has found his way. Today, fresh local wheat is emphasized, to ever more favorable review. If more bakeries were willing to move in this direction, farmers will be able to expand the area
used for producing contracted grain, driving a new wave in Taiwan’s agri-revolution. He not only has this “dream blueprint”; but also has founded a shopfront workshop, beckoning young people interested in bread-making to learn the skills. These individuals then move on to found their own enterprises in various places promoting shared beliefs and concepts.
A small bakery is not only bringing forth new-style breads, but also is promoting far-sighted ideas about ingredients, providing true happiness to people. Let’s hope that in future each and every community will possess just such a bakery, crafting its own unique style while proudly showcasing its aesthetic beliefs in the production process.
Photos ＿ Huotou Gong
1. Heavy cheesecake commonly called New York cheesecake
A little over 10 years ago, a European style bakery quite unexpectedly opened its doors at the entrance to the century-old Muzha Market (木柵市場). One and all were startled and befuddled. To that point, for countless visitors to traditional markets, a bread vendor meant wood racks displaying Taiwan-style breads – chopped green onion, adzuki bean, pineapple, etc. But, I had never seen a shop where doing everything by hand and using slow fermentation were the foundation, and healthy ingredients emphasized.
Upon trying its products, our whole family became loyal customers of A-duan’s Bakery (阿段烘焙). Though a little out of the way, the fact that it was there encouraged us to do more of our shopping at Muzha Market. We sometimes travel to Maokong (貓空) to gohiking, and buy lunch there first before hopping on a bus to head uphill. And, when giving tours of Taipei’s traditional markets, I make a point of choosing this one. One consideration is the unusually large number of small farms cultivating fruits and vegetables in the area; another is what this bakery represents: the advent of a new bread era.
A 50-Something Man Named “Fire-Head Worker”: Kneading a Bread Philosophy From Life
About 5 or 6 years ago the bakery moved, though not far from the market. This community bakery’s operations have matured over the course of its development. As new offerings have been researched, its customer base has steadily increased, and European-style multigrain breads have gradually been accepted. Imperceptibly, the bakery has become an indispensable neighborhood shop, and a platform for exchange of food-safety knowledge. Not only have many people given them their long-term support, but have also identified with the concepts to which this bakery adheres.
At the heart of the bakery is the master baker nicknamed huotou gong (火頭工), literally “fire-head worker” (huotou is a general term for chefs and bakers, referring to ovens/stoves). Learning the trade after the age of 50, the vicissitudes of life have been the source in his kneading of a philosophy of life based on bread. Few bakers share his background, with advanced education in science and engineering, At the same time, he has a love for poetry and the arts, and plays a variety of musical instruments, which have influenced his temperament. Seeing him stand before the bread display cases, moving customers with a solemn melody played on a hulusi (葫蘆絲), a free reed wind instrument from Yunnan, it is as though he is showing respect to his breads, and as if he is encouraging each to emerge from the oven perfectly baked.
2. Master baker huotou gong (lit. “firehead worker”) has made the concept of a community bakery a reality.
Small Shop, Big Vision: Using Bread to Drive an Agri-Revolution
In recent times, Taiwan’s master bakers have repeatedly won awards in international competitions, and in Taipei bakeries have sprouted like bamboo shoots after a spring rain, making it a “baking capital” (烘焙之都). Our production technology has reached international standard. However, the next challenge is a higher level of cultural discourse, enhancing Taiwan’s “bread understanding.”
Huotou gong has experimented with local ingredients, and after years of trial and error has found his way. Today, fresh local wheat is emphasized, to ever more favorable review. If more bakeries were willing to move in this direction, farmers will be able to expand the area
used for producing contracted grain, driving a new wave in Taiwan’s agri-revolution. He not only has this “dream blueprint”; but also has founded a shopfront workshop, beckoning young people interested in bread-making to learn the skills. These individuals then move on to found their own enterprises in various places promoting shared beliefs and concepts.
A small bakery is not only bringing forth new-style breads, but also is promoting far-sighted ideas about ingredients, providing true happiness to people. Let’s hope that in future each and every community will possess just such a bakery, crafting its own unique style while proudly showcasing its aesthetic beliefs in the production process.
