Taipei Travel

Perspectives of a German Tourist and Loyal Annual Visitor
Grand Cycling Tour of Taiwan
Article＿Cai Jiawei
Photos＿Chen Zhengguo
 
The “grand tour” has long been regarded as the true essence of travel. It involves trekking on one’s own through various landscapes, enjoying the warmth of the sun and the scenery and learning the lessons associated with loneliness and being alone. Travel is not just a simple sightseeing process of drinking, dining, and fun. It is a journey that requires changing one’s circumstances to find emotional and spiritual peace.
 
Traveling Taiwan’s Landscapes on Bicycle
Markus, who is from Germany, first visited Taiwan in 2009 and fell in love with the gorgeous scenery and amazing cultural landscapes here. There seems to be an invisible thread that connects him to Taiwan, as every summer he brings his well-traveled bicycle and a simple bag, embarking on yet another grand tour. “I have been to Taiwan a total of nine times,” he says. Not yet very proficient in Chinese, Markus uses simple gestures and a sincere heart to travel around Taiwan, easily making friends with the enthusiastic people he meets along the way. He says that, “Taiwanese are all very lovely, very warm.” This is the main reason that he likes visiting so much.
 
“Although Taiwan is not large in size, there are many places that are truly very beautiful, really beautiful,” he says. In recalling his travels, Markus strives to use all of the Chinese words that he knows in an attempt to share his various Taiwan experiences. “Each time I come, I actually don’t plan out my biking route,” he says. “If I find some information about Taiwan, or my German friends share their most recent travel experiences, this will give me a general direction in which to start out.” This year, his travels began in Taipei. From there he rode the Northern Cross-Island Highway (北橫公路), visiting various communities in the mountainous areas of northern Taiwan, such as Baling (巴陵), Xinguang (新光), Simakusi (司馬庫斯; also known as Smangus), Luchang (鹿場), and Nanzhuang (南庄). He crossed many of northern Taiwan’s famous mountains, using all his five senses to experience the peaks, rivers, flora, and fauna to the full.
 
Markus says that riding a bicycle is actually the most comfortable way to travel. He experiences firsthand the undulating topography of the mountains as he exerts effort to ride uphill and then breezily coasts downhill. At the same time, he feels the breathing and vitality of the mountains through every pore in his body. He can stop anytime and continue anytime. In this way, he can change the tempo of his travel, making it sometimes fast and sometimes slow. “When my bicycle and clothes become covered in splashes of mud, these represent the details of actual experiences.”
 
Savoring the Flavors of Local Life
To Markus, warmth and friendly enthusiasm are Taiwan’s characteristics. They are the important support that has encouraged him to continue to travel here. “Getting around Taiwan is very convenient,” he says. He doesn’t have to set his daily itinerary in any specific detail, something he considers to be an advantage, and he can find accommodation and eateries everywhere. This allows him to freely adjust his pace. Taiwan is safe, and thus there isn’t much worry of being a victim of robbery or fraud. While traveling in Taiwan, it is possible to feel the same warmth and peace of mind as being at home.
 
Taiwan’s food culture is another of its charming advantages. Markus, who has a remarkable memory, can list many of Taiwan’s specialty foods, such as pineapple cakes, pearl milk tea, and chayote shoots (龍鬚菜; literally “dragon whisker vegetable”). Desserts, beverages, snacks – with each trip Markus has accumulated rich taste memories. “Taiwan’s vegetables are fresh and delicious.” He shares the thought that each mouthful of fresh vegetables he has eaten in Taiwan has been crispy and sweet, and he can taste the high mountains and vast fields. In contrast with Europe, which covers a wide area, Taiwan has a large advantage in terms of transportation of produce to market, so no matter where you are in Taiwan you can enjoy foods grown at different elevations. Giving his sincerest praise, he says that, “The Taiwanese people are really very fortunate!”

Markus also says that, “I hope that even more people will come to know about the beauty of Taiwan.” He has already planned out his time in Taiwan next year. Based on his experiences, he wants to tell other international travelers that Taiwan is well worth visiting – with an open mind, the beauty of Taiwan’s mountains and forests will naturally linger in your memory, beckoning you back for another grand tour.

▲For nine years, Markus has traveled to Taiwan's large cities and mountains, experiencing the beauty of this island at a leisurely pace. (Photo: Chen Zhengguo)